Been a crazy few weeks.
First, I turned 30. Big up everyone who came down to celebrate with me!
I had a blast, I think we all did. We gave our Davenant Road the send off it deserved and warmed up the new home nicely.
Although, what I really felt called to write about is the 9 days I just spent in Jamaica. And especially the weekend I spent in Kingston. Mind blown. What a place.
Believe it or not I was actually in Jamaica for work. The annual gathering of Legendarios, where we try condense a years worth of human, face to face relationship building into a few days. While it feels decadent, it is also invaluable to get to spend this time together. I am hugely grateful.
We spend the week in a resort, or what my boss and good pal Joe aptly named the cruise ships of the land.
My name for them is the high temples of late capitalism.
Not exactly my cup of tea, but I can see their appeal. A gorgeous beach, wonderful pools and all inclusive food and drink. A protective cocoon within which you can enjoy the Caribbean, without being exposed to the locals and all their beautiful, messy complexities. These resorts simplify the holiday experience, removing the stress of a holiday for many, especially those with kids. However, in doing so they create something that is almost sterile. Devoid of culture. Intentionally separate from the life and liveliness of the island and its peoples.
To be fair, we did better than most people, we got out and about into the island thanks to bossman Chezri our guide and crafter of wonderful Jamaican experiences. We still hit the touristy sites; a rum tour of the Hampden's Distillery, a lazy raft down the Martha Brae river and a nighttime swim in this strange liminal space where cold river water met the warm ocean in a bio-luminescent lagoon. Thanks to Chezri, we did it VIP style. Always missing the hordes of tourists from the cruise ships or whatever. It was a big ol' day, but bloody good.
Chez also took us to catch a stunning sunset over the Carribean.
For me though, I knew there was no way I could visit Jamaica without visiting Kingston. Without finding some dub vibrations. Without finding out for myself the vibe of this place.
Sound system culture has been a big part of my life for as long as I can remember. Mungo's Hi-Fi, Iration Steppas, Channel One Sound System, Bushrocker Hi-Fi, Symbiosis Sound System, Irie Vibes Sound System, Messenger Sound System to name a few. Every city I have ever lived, from York, to Edinburgh, to London I have sort out and found sound system parties. Most UK cities have them. Not to mention the events like Unity Day, Notting Hill Carnival and Leeds Carnival. Or the many British festivals I regularly frequent.
I have so much gratitude and respect for those who brought this music and these vibes to the UK. The windrush generation and the generations that came after them have without a doubt made the UK a more interesting, vibrant place. Thank you.
Let me tell you nothing beats a Sunday skank to these uplifting, positive vibrations.
So as the week drew to a close, I struck out for Kingston on my ones to find out how they party in Jamaica. Kingston style.
This playlist acts as a timeline of my weekend in Kingston, gently winding up to a hectic Friday night out in uptown before dropping back to some Marley chillers as I toured the Bob Marley museum and staying pretty chill throughout as I went into the Blue mountains and to the Kingston Dub Club. Some top tunes on here, enjoy!
My Friday night round Uptown could not have gone much better. I started at the Kaya Herb House, for some herb, naturally. Then I met an absolute boyo, Bryce and his pals at the Dubwise Cafe. Kingston locals, born and raised. They took me under their wing for the night and made sure I didn't get into any trouble.
We checked out a fancy uptown party at Devon House, then headed to Janga's for Dancehall Friday's.
Jamaicans go mad for dancehall. Tunes from people like Vybz Kartel, are the rhythm of the island. Never heard of the guy before, but I can dig it.
That is one thing I realized about Jamaica, they are overflowing with music. Only a tiny fraction of the music makes its way out of the island into the wider world and while this islands music has had and continues to have an outsized influence on the music produced around the world, from what I could tell Jamaicans mostly listen to Jamaican music speaking to truths about their everyday reality. Whether that be Rastafarai, overproof rum and sexy ladies. Peace, love and unity. Or the beauty of the island of Jamaica and of course the many hardships of being Jamaican and living under the long shadow of colonialism.
They are musical exporters and have little need for imports.
Here is the mighty Bob Marley. Generational musician, absolute chiller and worldwide ambassador of peace, love and unity.
Bob and his many, many big tunes recorded out of Tuff Gong studios catapulted reggae music onto the world stage where it firmly remains to this day.
Despite being taken from this world too soon, at a mere 36 years of age, he was a record producing machine whose music continues to win awards to this day.
Marley's house was awesome, probably one of the best touristy things I have done in a city. It is just such a chill spot. My only slight complaint is that they seem to price out the locals, which is a shame.
After the museum I headed for a quick working lunch with a lecturer from the University of West Indies and Bryce. You never know, one day maybe we might have some Jamaican Legendarios.
Then up into Prince's Valley in the Blue Mountains. This fortunately just fell into place the day before. I was determined to get to the mountains, but my day tour canceled on my so I booked this guest house on a whim.
What a decision that turned out to be.
After a delicious home cooked meal, I spent the night in these glorious mountains stargazing.
I woke up at the crack of dawn, caught the sunrise and then had a banging Jamaican breakfast served with the most delicious coffee I have ever had in my life. Dreamy blue mountain coffee.
Then I led my own tour rambling through the mountains, always with the sound a tunes drifting on the mountain breeze from someones boombox.
I stopped for a swim at this delightful waterfall oasis which I had all to myself.
Complete with custom pallet seating, like this treehouse.
I eventually wandered out of Prince's Valley and up to Irish town, where I discovered the most unique Irish pub I have ever seen. Strictly Wray Nephews and Dragon Stout. Not a regular Guinness in sight.
From there it was on to the Kingston Dub Club on Skyline Drive, Reggae Mountain above Kingston.
This is the kind of temple I worship at.
Music with a feeling, music with a meaning at the Kingston Dub Club. Mother's Day Edition. Thank U mama for the nine months u carried me through!
Then my plan for Monday morning was a quick trip downtown, check out the art walk before heading to Rockers International record store. What happened was a little more eventful than that.
I did see the art walk. Loved this one. Easy skanking.
Then Bryce and I got waylaid by this top geezer. Mr Michael Gardine a.k.a Kush Dan I. He told me he was one of the Windrush children who came to the UK when he was just 6 years old and lived in Cardiff. I'm not exactly sure how he ended back up in Kingston, but he is still without any recognition from the British state. Shady.
Anyway, he was a good lad. So instead of Rockers International, which was closed, we went back to his place and perused his collection. I picked up some old school bangers on the 45. They look like they have seen some history.
Here is Kush Dan I, to sing us out.
Kingston, Jamaica you are a vibe. One day I will be back.
Bless up.